Qusair Mushatta, also often spelled Qasr al-Mshatta, is an Umayyad-era palace of which only its ruins remain, but thanks to its historical value, it can be a fascinating discovery for lovers of ancient architecture. In this post, we explain exactly where it is, what you can visit, and other useful details. And remember that if you would like to arrange a private excursion with a vehicle and guide, our agency can take care of it at any time.
Location and history of Qusair Mushatta
Qusair Mushatta is located about 30 km south of Jordan’s capital, Amman, within the group known as the Desert Castles. But what truly stands out about its location is that it sits right next to Queen Alia International Airport. In fact, as can be seen in satellite photographs, its location must have influenced the planning of that infrastructure, which respects the position of this historic site without absorbing or destroying it. Therefore, a visit to this place will inevitably be accompanied by the sight and sound of aircraft during take-off or landing, as the main runway is just 800 metres away in a straight line.
It is believed to have been commissioned by Caliph Walid II between 733 and 744, the latter being the year of his assassination. In fact, the palace was never completed, and a later earthquake may have definitively damaged what was still standing. Its name would translate as “winter palace”, and its likely purpose would have been to create an ostentatious and imposing setting to be used at this time of year for meetings with other dignitaries and local tribal leaders.
What remains of that palace today
Despite never having been completed and having suffered damage from the later earthquake, what remains standing at Qusair Mushatta is well worth admiring. It is one of the best-preserved examples of Umayyad architecture in Jordan, especially from the time of Caliph Walid II, around whom there is much mystery and interest, as he was reputed to lead an immoral life and to be an ardent patron of the arts, without strictly adhering to Islamic iconoclastic precepts.
The most monumental and iconic feature is its triple-arched façade, which would have led to the audience hall, decorated with rosettes, all carved from local limestone. A solemn, monumental entrance for authorities that can be found in other palaces promoted by monarchs of the Umayyad dynasty, such as Medina Azahara (Córdoba, Spain). Other important spaces can be identified within the complex, such as a mosque, private rooms and their corresponding latrines, which reflects the level of comfort that was sought in this palace.
Unfortunately, in situ its most refined façade, the southern one, has not been preserved: today it is displayed at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, as it was gifted to Germany in gratitude for the construction of the Hejaz Railway, carried out by that country. It was the most richly decorated façade, with mouldings, rosettes and other vegetal elements, as well as fantastical animals.
Practical information about Qusair Mushatta
Qusair Mushatta is a monument included in the Jordan Pass, the ‘pass’ that every tourist obtains with their entry visa to the country. It is open every day from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm, but given its out-of-the-way location away from the main tourist routes, it is not difficult to get in, even on the same day. In any case, we recommend checking opening times and other conditions in advance.
