The Church of the Apostles in Madaba is an excellent example of what makes this city special: a place of traditional coexistence between Christians and Muslims, where during the Byzantine era (before the advent of Islam) an extraordinary production of mosaics flourished. Many of these have survived and are now open to visitors, such as those we discussed in the post about the churches of St. John the Baptist and St. George, with its mosaic map.
History of the Church
The Church of the Apostles in Madaba was a Christian temple dedicated to the disciples of Jesus. We speak in the past tense because this building no longer functions as a church; instead, it is a visitable monument in the form of an archaeological site. That is to say, there was a church here, built in the year 578 and dedicated to the apostles, according to one of its inscriptions, at a time when Madaba was one of the region’s principal Christian cities, with its own bishopric.
However, it was later destroyed and buried in oblivion until the Italian parish priest Giuseppe Manfredi rediscovered it in 1902. Following archaeological recovery efforts, decades later it was decided to construct a building over the mosaics to protect them and, at the same time, recreate the original environment in which they were conceived. It was then that architect Ammar Khammash designed the current church, in a sober, humble, and ancient-inspired style, measuring 23 x 15 meters.
The Mosaics of the Church of the Apostles in Madaba
From the outside, no one could imagine the richness and spectacular nature of what lies within. Specifically, on the pavement: one of the finest mosaic collections in the entire country, not only for the quality and variety of the compositions but also for its excellent state of preservation. Below, we list the most notable:
- Main Mosaic: This is the largest of all, featuring an elongated format where a large grid of rhomboid spaces unfolds. Within it, a charming succession of compositions based on birds, flowers, and plants. Along the entire perimeter of the mosaic, a frame with acanthus scrolls and scenes with youths and animals in various poses, such as the chariot with pheasants. And in the center, a medallion depicts the personification of the sea (Thalassa), so beautifully crafted that it was disassembled for exhibition in the Jordan Pavilion at the ’92 Seville Expo. This is where the artist’s ‘signature’ is located, which, in an inscription praising the patrons, mentions “Salaman” as the mosaicist of the work.
- Mosaics of Achilles and Patroclus: These are among the most photographed due to the surprising explicitness of the depiction of a semi-naked Patroclus with a spear and Achilles with a cithara. These mosaics were discovered in rooms adjacent to the church, so they may be subject to reinterpretation.
- Mosaics of the North Chapel and Northwest Chapel: Smaller but exquisitely crafted are also those of these two chapels, featuring pairs of wild animals and fruit plants.
How to Visit the Church
The Church of the Apostles in Madaba has quite extensive visiting hours: open daily from 8:00 AM, until 4:00 PM in winter (November to March), until 5:30 PM in April-May, and until 6:30 PM in summer (June to September). Admission to this church is included in the Jordan Pass, the pass received by all tourists after paying the country’s entry fees.
